After a few weeks in the Tasman area, where we took the sun and bathed in the turquoise waters of the golden sand beaches, it’s time to continue our journey along the west coast. Well known for its “sand flies” (scourge of the South Island much worse than the basic mosquito) but also for its snowy mountains landscapes and fresh and limpid rivers with unrealistic colors.

Buller Gorges

We leave the Nelson Lakes to head to our first West Coast town, Westport. To get there we take the pretty road of the Buller Gorges where the water flows more or less passively. On the road full of small lookouts are offered to enjoy the view on the gorges. After a desperate search we also found a well hidden spot with a small sandy beach where we had a picnic and swimming with our road accomplices, the Diabolos Kiwi.

Westport 

Our stop in Westport only consisted in sleeping near the Kawatiri large beach. A very long beach of white sand, beaten by the sea wind and strewn with driftwood. It has, unfortunately, in our eyes, no particular charm.

The city of Westport is not worth a stop.

A little further on the road that leads to the south, it’s possible to make a small stop at Tauranga bay. A short walk is offered leading to an observation point, high on the rocks, on a colony of wild seals. The distance that separates us from the seals on the platform doesn’t allow, unfortunately, to appreciate the observation as clearly and deeply as in other places of NZ.

Fox River

On our way south we decided to take a hike on the Fox River. A walk along a beautiful watercourse that looks promising, thanks to the 3 caves that border it and which is possible to visit on the way, but also because you have to cross the river several times feet in the water.

Unfortunately, the path leading to the caves was closed (2017) due to multiple collapses, and the river crossings gently scratched our feet.

Even if the ride was nice, don’t go without proper sandals. Fortunately, swim spot and the environment remain super nice, but the stop can be skipped as well.

Punakaiki

One of the must-see stops on the west coast is the boardwalk, which is accessible to all, leading to the observation of the “Pancake Rocks“. These unexpectedly shaped rocks surrounded by beautiful landscapes are worth a visit. A tourist place, but these mounds of limestone layers are a curiosity not to be missed, as well as the “blowhole” where the sea and the wind mingle in an unleashing of magnificent power.

Prefer a visit early in the morning or, like us, later in the day, towards sunset to enjoy this phenomenon more peacefully without tourist buses.

Before leaving Punakaiki, we will take a little walk resembles to a path in the middle of the tropical jungle, the one around the Pororari River. Once again, it’s a nice setting and a cool swim that will close the ride.

Greymouth

This city stands out as a refueling stop since it’s the largest agglomeration on the west coast. Marked by the history of gold mining and jade, it’s now home to one of the largest beer breweries in New Zealand. A small museum is visitable to trace the stormy past of this city but, we stayed there for a short time and didn’t find much interest in the city.

Hokitika

Enjoy a stroll on the edge of the Hokitika Gorges to observe the spectacular color of the water flowing through it. A really deep milky turquoise that is not usual and offers a unique and beautiful view. A nice suspension bridge allows to cross the river to go to take a rest on the withe rocks banks that border it. The more adventurous will bathe there, but know that the water owes its color to the snow melt on the limestone residues of the shale stones, so the temperature of the latter must to be think.
At about twenty minutes drive, it is also possible to discover the beautiful Kaniere lake which offers the possibility of great walks or just a swim a little warmer than in the water gorges. A soothing and less busy place.

Franz Josef Glacier 

After taking informations about the possibilities of viewpoints offered on this glacier, we finally opted for the Robert’s view point track.

5 hours walk return on a technical but pleasant trail that leads to a platform with a view on the glacier.

We did not regret the effort, and even found the challenge of the trail fun. The view, although a little distant, encompasses the glacier front which is beautiful to discover.

Fox Glacier 

Just after our ascent to Franz Josef, we decide to continue on the viewpoint  leading, this time, to the Fox Glacier. This one being in a less pleasant environment, many tend to prefer Franz to Fox. After an hour’s ride in a valley of greyish stones we quickly realized that the glacier itself is covered, for a good part, of these landslides. This explains the discontent of some facing this discovery.
Nevertheless, we were less disappointed than expected and didn’t regret the ride, certainly less exhilarating, but also interesting.
After this passage on the essential points of the west coast, it’s now time to take the road to the next region, and not least, that of Otago. Yes but, to do it, you have to go through a beautiful road that has, also, some beauties to reveal. Therefore we made small stops mainly along water.

Thunder creek falls

First stop on waterfalls close to the road, but still splendid. After 5 minutes walk a small wooden platform has been arranged to be able to contemplate the waterfall opposite or even to go down to reach the river. The color of the water is, once again, what makes the strength of the place. A nice little stop.

Gates of Haast

A little further up the road it is, this time, on the “Gates of Haast” bridge that a small view of the gorges is proposed.

A quick stop the time to contemplate the power of the water flowing in these places.

Once again the color of the water is spectacular, which seems to be usual in this part of New Zealand.

Fantail waterfalls

Finally, before crossing the “border” separating the west coast from the Otago region, we will make a last stop on the Fantail waterfall. A 5 minutes walk leads to the falls base, where travelers have become accustomed to forming ephemeral stones sculptures, more or less impressive. It’s also a place where it’s possible to bathe when the weather permits it, which was unfortunately not our case.

Our discovery of the west coast was guide by the water rhythm between mountain rivers, maritime rocks, gorges with dazzling colors, and historical glaciers. It’s a wild region that offers us a new version of New Zealand and opens perfectly  the doors to regions even further south. A taste full of promise for the rest of the trip.